tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29661848837643381692024-02-20T04:39:26.913-08:00apaintingamonthclubadminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15505428162663321851noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2966184883764338169.post-4528843970997193402014-03-20T10:32:00.000-07:002014-03-20T10:32:05.037-07:00How to Paint a Room Quickly and Problem-Free<div id="article-content" style="text-align: justify;">
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In most cases painting a room is a fairly simple task, even for
the most inexperienced people. Depending on the size of the room,
painting the whole room can take only a few hours, a full day, or even
days on end. However there are some techniques and methods you must
learn before beginning to paint which will greatly speed up the process.
Furthermore, you will need to learn how to make the job as problem free
as possible, and learn how to avoid any 'painting disasters'.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<em>To begin, let's go through the tools and items you will need before you begin the paint job.</em></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<u><strong>Essential Tools and Items For Painting</strong></u></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The
most obvious tool you are going to need for a paint job, is a paint
brush - of course. Paint brushes come in many different forms and sizes,
but as in this case you are painting a room, a large paintbrush should
do fine. Although having a smaller one for some of the corners and more
precise parts of the wall would be beneficial.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The next most
essential tool you will need is a paint roller. If you have never used
or seen one of these before, it is a large roll with a handle which you
dip into paint, and then roll across the wall back and forth. A paint
roller makes painting one hundred times easier and quicker, and unless
you want to spend ages painting the wall, you are going to need a paint
roller. When you buy a paint roller you should also get a tray as well
where you would pour some of the paint into.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The correct clothing
is also very important. It goes without saying that you wouldn't wear
any of your best clothes while painting. Actually, you shouldn't be
wearing any normal types of clothing at all as the first layer. What you
need is a full set of overalls that you could wear while painting. It's
almost impossible to complete any paint job without getting a whole lot
of paint over yourself, no matter how careful you may believe yourself
to be. Overalls are extremely cheap, and the chances are you, a
relative, or a friend will already have a pair they can lend you anyway.
In the worst case of scenario you should wear the worst, and cheapest
clothes you own!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The last item you will need is the cheapest, and
easiest to find - scrap paper, tissues, or newspapers. Before beginning
to paint you will need to make sure that you cover the floor, especially
the edges with scrap paper. It's very likely that you are going to
spill and drip paint on the floor, and the last thing you want to do is
spill in on your floor. So have scrap paper on the floor, and at your
floor will be protected at least a little.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<u><strong>Steps for a Perfect* Paint Job</strong></u></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Read
over these steps before beginning the painting, as its very important
that you understand each and every stage of painting a wall.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<strong>Stage 1 - laying out the correct tools and materials.</strong>
Make sure that you lay all the scrap paper or covers you can across the
floor, and make sure no area of the real floor can be seen where you
will be painting. Next, pour the paint you will be using into the paint
roller tray, and place it on the floor or work area where you will be
painting. And of course, make sure you are wearing all the correct
clothes.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<strong>Stage 2 - make sure wall is as smooth as possible, and grit free.</strong>
Any tiny lumps, or any grit at all you can see on the wall you will be
painting should be removed before any painting is done at all. The last
thing you want to be doing is painting over physical dirt or grit on the
walls, as then it will be there for good. I strongly suggest you give
the wall a good sand before beginning the painting.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<strong>Stage 3 - Paint main surface of the wall with roller.</strong>
Excluding the corners, or turning points in the room, you should paint
the wall by rolling the paint roller in the paint tray, and then rolling
the paint over all of the main surfaces of the room. This is the most
time consuming part of the paint job, but it's pretty simple and easy to
do. Make sure you don't go near the corners of the room using the paint
roller.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<strong>Stage 4 - Paint the corners of the room.</strong>
Now instead of using the paint roller, you are going to need to use a
paint brush to paint the corners of the room. Using your brush, simply
dip the brush into the paint and smoothly begin brushing over the corner
and sides of the wall. Make sure you are very careful when approaching a
skirting or floor. This is more difficult that using the paint roller,
but it's the only way possible to paint those corners of the room.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<strong>Stage 5 - Leave the paint to dry.</strong>.
Depending on how thick you have painted the walls, it will generally
take a few hours to dry. After you are complete the painting, leave the
room and do something else for a few hours before returning.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<strong>Stage 6 - The cleanup.</strong>
Only after the paint is completely dry, should you re-enter the room
and begin to clean up your painting tools. Make sure you pour any
remaining paint in the paint tray back into the bucket. Furthermore,
make sure you clean the paint brush under a tap as soon as possible as
you don't want the bristles of the brush going rock solid. And lastly,
collect all of the scrap paper or cover over the floor.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<strong>You have now successfully painted a room! (Hopefully to perfection... )</strong></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
To
conclude, what you have learned in this article is essential to making
sure you paint a room to a good standard. Without knowing what you are
doing, it can be very easy to make a complete mess off a paint job. So
learning what you need to know before beginning I'd very important. If
you followed the instructions I have explained here, then you are headed
in the right direction. However becoming a good painter is a skill, you
may be surprised to here, and the chances are you are always going to
make mistakes on your first try, and learn from them.</div>
</div>
adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15505428162663321851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2966184883764338169.post-79254920066060139382014-03-20T10:31:00.004-07:002014-03-20T10:31:44.933-07:00Oil Painting For Beginners - How to Get Started<div id="article-content" style="text-align: justify;">
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So are you a total beginner to painting or do you have some
experience in painting with other mediums? Well either way there are
some key facts that you will need to start you off on the right track.
To a certain extent you can do whatever you like with acrylics, just
keep piling the paint on until you get what you are looking for but with
oils it is slightly different.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So, to start with you will need
some materials. The art shops have a huge selection of materials to
choose from and this can be quite daunting if you don't really know what
you are looking for. In addition to all the numerous paint colours you
can chose from there are a wide variety of mediums, brushes, painting
surfaces etc.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Paint</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Let's look at paint to start
with. There are 2 main types of oil paint in terms of quality - student
colours and artist's colours. Student oils paints are often cheaper than
artists as they don't use the expensive pigments and are produced in
larger quantities. The colour strength might be slightly lower than
artists' quality oils but really these are good enough if you are
starting out and are often used by professional artists in conjunction
with the higher pigment colours of artists' oils or as base colours
before using artists' oils for the top layer. So to start off with you
need only have a basic selection of 10 or 12 tubes of paint. You can
often buy the starter boxes which contain a lot of the colours that you
might need.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Painting Mediums</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In addition to the paint
you will need to get some thinners and also a bottle of painting
medium. There are so many options with regard to painting medium but to
start off with you can just chose to use linseed oil and as you go on
and experiment more try different types of medium and how they affect
the paint and help or hinder with your style of painting.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Brushes</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So,
then you will need some brushes. These also come in so many different
types and sizes. It may well depend on what style of painting you are
planning to do as to what brushes you need. For example if you are going
to paint realistically in fine detail you may want smaller round
brushes but if you are going to paint big abstract blended paintings
then go for big softer flat brushes. I may be contentious in advising
this but when you are just starting out, especially if you are just
going to be testing out various techniques I would advise getting some
cheap brushes to see what kind of shape and size you prefer to use. The
main problems with cheaper brushes in my opinion are that firstly, some
of the hairs may come out whilst you are painting and secondly, the
brushes may not retain their shape as well. Advantages are that you
don't buy expensive brushes that you subsequently decide are not the
right type for you. Once you have decided your painting style and which
brushes are suitable for that you can then buy the more expensive ones.
For me, as an abstract artist, I also prefer the much softer (and for
some reason cheaper) big brushes that blend the paint really nicely and
don't leave so many brush strokes. I will use the brush firstly on a
test painting and that will generally get rid of any of the lose hairs
so hardly any will come off on my actual painting.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Support</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Then
of course you need something to paint on! The main choice in art shops
is between stretched canvas and canvas board. There are obviously a lot
of alternatives but to start with choose either a board or a canvas that
is primed and suitable for oils (just read the label or chose one of
the more common makes like Daley-Rowney or Winsor & Newton). Maybe
choose a small one to start with just to get to grips with the medium.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Once
you have your paint and your surface or support (canvas) you can start!
You will also need a palette of some kind but you can use anything from
disposable plates, to a piece of wood, a proper palette from the art
shop or a book of disposable palettes (saves on messy palettes hanging
around as you can just throw them away!). Plastic palettes are useful as
they usually have little sections that you can pour your medium into
and use whilst you are painting.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>What to Paint</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So,
now you can start. But what do you paint? If you are really just
starting out then you may want to get a book that gives you a
step-by-step guide as to how to paint a particular scene or painting,
then you can learn the methods used to bring the painting to life.
Otherwise you may have a favourite photo or a picture from the internet
or even an old master that you want to recreate. I really think that
trying to copy something that someone has already done is a good way to
learn about techniques as it pushes you to try and think about how to do
something and in doing so you learn these new techniques that you might
not have learnt otherwise.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Layers</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Whatever you are
trying to paint, you should use a number of layers to build up the
painting and not try to complete it all in one go! When I say this I
mean the following: For the first layer, use the paint 'watered' down
with thinners. This is starting the painting using the 'fat over lean'
method. In basic terms when you apply paint, the most oily layer (fat)
should be on top of the layer with least oil (lean i.e. containing
thinners) underneath. If you don't use this method then your painting
might subsequent have cracks in it where the different layers of paint
dry at different speeds.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
There are many different schools of
thought as to how to actually paint and what colours to use and this
article is not going to be encompassing enough to go through those.
Basically on the first layer apply it with thinners in a loose manner
(i.e. the painting does not have to be precise at this stage). The main
aim is to cover all of the canvas with some paint to provide a
foundation. As you apply more and more layers - the number of layers is
up to you - the paint should have more oil in it as you go on. So for
example in the next layer you could use half linseed oil and half
thinners as a medium and then the layer after linseed oil with no
thinners.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Cleaning Brushes</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The common school of
thought is to clean brushes with turps or a specific brush cleaner.
However, I find it better (I think on the environment as well as the
smell and keeping the brushes for longer) to use soap and warm water.
Soap can be just a simple soap or you can use washing up liquid. Make
the brush wet then build up a lather with the soap. Rinse out the paint
with warm water and repeat until the brush is clean.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Oil paints do
take a reasonable time to dry - particularly if you compare them to
acrylics. Paint with more thinners in will dry quicker however and you
can also buy mediums that will make the paint dry quicker (e.g. liquin).
The first layer with thinners should dry reasonably quickly,
particularly if you are using earthy colours. It is up to you if you
wait for the layers to dry, quite often this depends on the type of
painting you are doing, or if you add subsequent layers on top of the
wet paint. If you do this then just be careful to work in definite
strokes and to clean your brush often so that the paint does not 'muddy'
and mix layers together more than you would like.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Summary</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So
in summary, for the complete beginner in oils I would say this. Get
yourself a box of student oil paints, some thinners, some linseed oil, a
palette, 2 or 3 brushes in different sizes, and a canvas. Choose a
subject or get a book that gives you step by step instructions. Paint in
layers 'fat over lean'. Keep practising!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
There have been lots of
books written on the subject and I would advise you if you are really
serious about painting with oils to get hold of one that gives you all
the detailed information but this article is just to give you a few
hints and tips to start you off.</div>
</div>
<div id="article-resource" style="text-align: justify;">
The author has been a professional artist for 5 years and
supplies paintings to individuals, interior designers and hotels in
addition to having a passion for art spanning over 30 years</div>
adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15505428162663321851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2966184883764338169.post-56060762276451663002014-03-20T10:31:00.001-07:002014-03-20T10:31:24.836-07:00Discover the Best Application Techniques For Applying Acrylic Paints<div id="article-content" style="text-align: justify;">
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Simple Techniques You Can Use To Create That Professional Looking
Finish When Painting Your Home. Acrylic Paints are by far the easiest
painting products to work with. Acrylic is easy to clean up, it dries
quickly and doesn't run or sag, unless you apply crazy amounts or unless
moisture and cold weather gets to it. It's really easy to apply, spread
out and work with. So really, how hard can it be?</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
To be honest,
for most who have never been taught the basics it can be really
difficult. I often cringe when I see non qualified people painting.
Maybe it's a pride issue, I don't know and I don't mean to be harsh,
after all they are trying their best, but some of the techniques they
use leave a lot to be desired. Painting the correct way isn't hard, it
just takes a bit of practice, but first we have to see what bad habits
you have picked up and what your application techniques actually are.
Then I can show you the correct way.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Once you get a few of these
basics down and had a little practice, then painting with acrylic will
quickly become easy and you will be applying paint with a professional,
quality finish every time.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
1) - First things first - To paint
acrylic well, you have to paint like you aren't paying for the paint! If
you want a nice paint finish then you need to apply the right amount of
paint. You should never spread paint out thinly because you want to
save some money or for any other reason. It simply doesn't work, it will
leave you with a coat of paint that you can see through, looks
scratchy, has an uneven finish, or is simply very ordinary looking. To
paint well, forget about the cost of the paint and apply a nice, even,
thick coat. Of course not too think or else it will all end up sagging
off your wall, but we will get to how much is the right amount as we go.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
2)
- How to apply acrylic paints correctly using a brush When I was taught
how to paint I was made to do everything with a 3 inch (7mm) brush.
This includes cutting in, painting windows, Glossing off wood work,
everything.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now, while I don't expect you to have the same control
over a brush that this exercise taught me, it will help you to
understand some of the differences between the over all finish that a
DIY person using cheap, little, fiddly brushes will get versus a painter
taught the correct way using the correct equipment. The number one
reason for being taught this way is that you can achieve a much nicer
finish with a bigger 3 inch brush than what you can with a little brush.
The second reason and it is also a big factor is that it's much quicker
once you develop the skill required to cut in with a bigger brush. Good
quality little brushes have their place for fiddly work but the
majority of your acrylic painting should be done with a 3 inch brush.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So
what is a good quality brush then? Painting with a bargain shop $2 or
$3 brush is going to produce a really crap finish. Use these types of
brushes for washing engine parts!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
As I have stated before in other
articles, I favour the Purdy range of brushes. They are fantastically
constructed, they narrow down to a thin point for cutting in at the tip
of the bristles, they hold their shape extremely well and usually come
with a nifty storage cover designed to hold the shape of the bristles
during storage. This is so that you don't set about to start painting,
pull out your collection of brushes from the shed to find the bristles
are now bent in all directions except a usable one. But here is the best
part about the Purdy's! With the proper care and correct use these
brushes last for years! I have been using one of these 3 inch types just
like the one you can see on this page for 8 Years!!! That's the same
brush not different brushes! 8 years, now that's a good quality brush!!!
Get yourself a decent brush it's essential for creating a good painting
finish.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Method for painting acrylic with a brush: Now when it
comes to applying paint with a brush, I find that most people dip the
paint into their pot and then straight away wipe it all off again on the
side of the pot??? The next problem is they like to use very short
stokes with the brush and go back and forth. Hmm. This is how to do it
properly. Lets presume that you are painting a wall and you have your
painting pot, paint and a 3 inch brush ready to go.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Fill the pot
up with only about 100mm or 4 inches of paint leaving enough room up the
side of the pot to "tap" your brush against the side.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Next you
dip the bristles of your brush no more than 1/2 way into the paint tap
both of the flat sides of you brush 2 or 3 times against one side of
your pot (this keeps your pot relatively clean.)</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
With either of
the thin edges of your bristles as the leading edge( or pointing in the
direction you are going to move the brush. Apply straight to the wall
about 50mm or 2 inches from the surface you intend to cut into and wipe
the bristles about 1 arms length across the surface.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Next you are
going to spread the paint up towards the line you are going to cut into.
Once you have cut in a nice straight line, which just takes practice.
Then finish off the entire arms length stroke with a light even
pressured stroke. That's it just one stroke over the whole surface you
have just painted two max. This leaves a nice even finish making sure
that you haven't left any "fat" edges or stop start marks which look
horrible when the paint dries. if you have any fat edges left after
this, then just wipe over them again with your brush in long strokes.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The
whole length of your cutting in should be about 100 - 150mm or 4 - 6
inches wide and about one arms length long with no fat edges and a nice
even finish free of stop start marks. Its important To make sure that
you remove all stop/start marks ensure that the finishing stroke goes
back in the direction of your previously painted surface, not towards
the direction that you are about to paint next. always go back into your
work with a long stroke to finish off.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
3) - How To Apply Acrylic
Paint Using A Roller Again there are many bad habits when it comes to
using a roller to apply acrylic paints and also the tools that you use
will make a huge difference too.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
These are the tool that I suggest
you use for your painting project. Thickness of the roller - For
interior acrylic paints on a normal wall/ceiling - 11mm nap/pile (that's
the length of the wool - I only use the wool roller sleeves I can't
stand foam or the man made fibres) Length of the roller sleeve. - I
always use the 270mm roller sleeves which is the largest sleeve and
frame combo that you can buy. Why waste time with a smaller one?</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The
type of roller tray that you use is a big factor on how easy your job
is going to run. many of them are just rubbish and cause you more
spillage and headache than anything else. there are a few different one
that painters use. My personal favourite, and unfortunately I can't
supply with a photo so you will have to put up with my lame description
is a curved well type. From the side on view where you pour the paint
into looks a bit like a "C" with a tray coming of the bottom of the "C".
I will take a photo of a nice clean new one and post it here for you to
see. This type reduces the spills and accidents immensely plus it has a
handle underneath so that when you pick it up all the paint sits in the
Well and doesn't spill everywhere. They are great!!</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Extension
Poles - they are a must! Using an extension pole is essential for
creating a professional finish to your wall. If you don't use them it
will take you all day to do a 5 - 10 minute job and the finish will be
uneven and very amateurish. The bottom line if you want nice even &
professional finish to your newly rolled surface get yourself a good
twist lock or extendable roller pole.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The Roller Frame that you
use isn't overly important but there are a few things to keep in mind.
With the cheap roller frames often after a bit of use they start to
bleed a grease that mixes with the paint and causes grey splatters of
tainted grey paint on your nice new wall. While this is really annoying
it can be avoided most of the time by getting a better quality roller
frame. Apart from that I don't have a favourite type that I would
recommend.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Method for painting acrylic with a roller: Make sure
you are wearing old clothing & have remove any nice jewelry that you
don't want spattered with paint, you have a good quality drop cloth
down on the floor and covering your furniture. Rollers tend to spray
lots of little paint flecks so cover everything up. Now after stirring
your paint, pour some into you tray but don't fill it right up to
maximum capacity. You need to have a little bit of room to work with, so
just full up the Well of your tray not the flat tray it self. Next
rinse the roller sleeve under some cold water and spin out excess water
this is just to dampen the wool which stops the paint from drying hard
at the base of the wool fibers.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
attach the extension pole and
adjust to fit your size. When rolling you want to stand about 1 metre
away from the wall and be easily able to reach all the way up to the
ceiling without stretching and all the way down to the top of the
skirting boards without bending over. Now load up your roller with
paint. Start by placing your clean sleeve on the flat tray and role into
the paint coating smaller amounts of the sleeve at a time until full
(should take about 5 or 6 dips to do this) Never just plunge the entire
roller sleeve into the paint nor do you roll back towards you on the
tray, always roll towards the paint well this will keep the paint from
dripping over the edge of the tray and making a big mess.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
once the
roller sleeve is nice and evenly coated all over then apply to the
wall. Start about 200mm or 8 inches away from the corner of the wall and
about knee height and roll up wards until you get about 3/4 of the way
up the wall. leave it for the moment and re fill your roller and apply
in the same fashion starting about knee height and about 150mm further
across the wall from your last roller full. Next you want to spread it
out evenly. After the 2nd applying roll, take your roller off the wall
go back to the starting point of your first roll. Applying a firm even
pressure roll up towards the cornice but this time roll it a bit closer
to the cornice but not up to the final height yet, stay down about 150mm
for now. Then roll down and across to the starting point of your second
applying roll, again rolling it up to the cornice again staying down
about 150mm from it. then roll back down and across to the starting
point and down to the skirting board.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now that the majority of
your paint is spread out you need to push it out the the edges of your
wall. so roll the paint gently out to about 30mm above the skirting
board edge of your wall and the same up below the cornice. The trick is
to avoid fat edges so lighten the pressure you are applying to the
roller as you approach the edges and finish with a very light pressure
as you rebound and roll back in the opposite direction. So - As you roll
down to the skirting board start lightening your pressure about 300mm
or 1ft above the skirting board and as you get to the bottom it should
be just the weight of the roller on the wall as you stop your downwards
roll and start rolling back up the wall.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
When spreading the paint
to the outside edges or as you are pushing the paint into the corners of
your wall you want to make sure you aren't pushing copious amount o
paint into the corners to make fat edges. For the edges of your wall
make sure the side of your roller frame that the sleeve slides up
against or the side that disappears into the sleeve is facing away from
the wall. (you should always lead with the edge. that means have it
facing the over all direction that you are painting) Now push gently and
tilting the pole away from the edge that you are rolling into (this
will lift the pressure on the edge of the roller closest to the internal
corner of the wall and reduce the risk of creating a fat edge in that
corner). Roll gently taking your time not to get too close to the other
wall.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now that the paint is evenly spread across the wall and all
the surfaces are covered you need to apply the finishing roll. This is
other wise known as "laying it off" with your now emptied roller start
about half a roller width from the corner of the wall at about waist
height. Again make sure the part of your frame which going inside the
roller sleeve is facing towards the direction that you will applying
your next roller full to. Now again slightly tilt the roller pole making
your trailing edge of the roller sleeve light to avoid leaving a line
of paint. Now roll up and into the top corner of your wall then roll
down along the wall taking care again not to get it on the other wall.
Once at the bottom roll up to the cornice this time slowly moving your
roller as you go about half a roller sleeve width away from the internal
corner once at the top. Do this movement over the whole rolling stroke
don't lift off and reposition or slide over then start again for this
lay of technique your roller should never lift off the surface. Once at
the top go back down again moving 1/2 a roller sleeve over on your way
down then at the bottom do it again and keep doing this until you have
gone over the entire surface you just applied paint to.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Have a
quick look to see if you left any lines of paint down your wall form
uneven pressure or incorrect technique if it all looks good the start
with the applying technique again. if not re do the laying off method
until you are happy with it. For the rest of the wall it is exactly the
same method as before. only you treat the previous laid off surface as
the internal corner of the wall, except for when you get to the
spreading it out part and when you lay it off. This time you will go
back into your previously laid off surface about 1/2 a roller width when
spreading it out and 1 full roller width when laying it off. Again with
your laying off technique, start away from where your laying off stroke
that goes back into your existing work will finish and at waist height
roll up to the full 1 roller distance into the previously laid off
surface roll straight down and then start the up down 1/2 roller at a
time movement across the wall until you cover all the newly applied
paint.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
For all surfaces that you roll its the exact same
technique. on ceilings though it is worth me mentioning that you start
against one edge and work across the ceiling walking backwards. but you
apply and lay off the paint exactly the same way. put it on spread it
out and roll to the edges then lay it off and you're done! Painters tip:
Remember to lighten the pressure that you are applying on your roller
pole when you are about to change directions to avoid leaving a build up
of paint where you changed the direction or other wise known as a "fat
edge".</div>
</div>
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