Simple Techniques You Can Use To Create That Professional Looking
Finish When Painting Your Home. Acrylic Paints are by far the easiest
painting products to work with. Acrylic is easy to clean up, it dries
quickly and doesn't run or sag, unless you apply crazy amounts or unless
moisture and cold weather gets to it. It's really easy to apply, spread
out and work with. So really, how hard can it be?
To be honest,
for most who have never been taught the basics it can be really
difficult. I often cringe when I see non qualified people painting.
Maybe it's a pride issue, I don't know and I don't mean to be harsh,
after all they are trying their best, but some of the techniques they
use leave a lot to be desired. Painting the correct way isn't hard, it
just takes a bit of practice, but first we have to see what bad habits
you have picked up and what your application techniques actually are.
Then I can show you the correct way.
Once you get a few of these
basics down and had a little practice, then painting with acrylic will
quickly become easy and you will be applying paint with a professional,
quality finish every time.
1) - First things first - To paint
acrylic well, you have to paint like you aren't paying for the paint! If
you want a nice paint finish then you need to apply the right amount of
paint. You should never spread paint out thinly because you want to
save some money or for any other reason. It simply doesn't work, it will
leave you with a coat of paint that you can see through, looks
scratchy, has an uneven finish, or is simply very ordinary looking. To
paint well, forget about the cost of the paint and apply a nice, even,
thick coat. Of course not too think or else it will all end up sagging
off your wall, but we will get to how much is the right amount as we go.
2)
- How to apply acrylic paints correctly using a brush When I was taught
how to paint I was made to do everything with a 3 inch (7mm) brush.
This includes cutting in, painting windows, Glossing off wood work,
everything.
Now, while I don't expect you to have the same control
over a brush that this exercise taught me, it will help you to
understand some of the differences between the over all finish that a
DIY person using cheap, little, fiddly brushes will get versus a painter
taught the correct way using the correct equipment. The number one
reason for being taught this way is that you can achieve a much nicer
finish with a bigger 3 inch brush than what you can with a little brush.
The second reason and it is also a big factor is that it's much quicker
once you develop the skill required to cut in with a bigger brush. Good
quality little brushes have their place for fiddly work but the
majority of your acrylic painting should be done with a 3 inch brush.
So
what is a good quality brush then? Painting with a bargain shop $2 or
$3 brush is going to produce a really crap finish. Use these types of
brushes for washing engine parts!
As I have stated before in other
articles, I favour the Purdy range of brushes. They are fantastically
constructed, they narrow down to a thin point for cutting in at the tip
of the bristles, they hold their shape extremely well and usually come
with a nifty storage cover designed to hold the shape of the bristles
during storage. This is so that you don't set about to start painting,
pull out your collection of brushes from the shed to find the bristles
are now bent in all directions except a usable one. But here is the best
part about the Purdy's! With the proper care and correct use these
brushes last for years! I have been using one of these 3 inch types just
like the one you can see on this page for 8 Years!!! That's the same
brush not different brushes! 8 years, now that's a good quality brush!!!
Get yourself a decent brush it's essential for creating a good painting
finish.
Method for painting acrylic with a brush: Now when it
comes to applying paint with a brush, I find that most people dip the
paint into their pot and then straight away wipe it all off again on the
side of the pot??? The next problem is they like to use very short
stokes with the brush and go back and forth. Hmm. This is how to do it
properly. Lets presume that you are painting a wall and you have your
painting pot, paint and a 3 inch brush ready to go.
Fill the pot
up with only about 100mm or 4 inches of paint leaving enough room up the
side of the pot to "tap" your brush against the side.
Next you
dip the bristles of your brush no more than 1/2 way into the paint tap
both of the flat sides of you brush 2 or 3 times against one side of
your pot (this keeps your pot relatively clean.)
With either of
the thin edges of your bristles as the leading edge( or pointing in the
direction you are going to move the brush. Apply straight to the wall
about 50mm or 2 inches from the surface you intend to cut into and wipe
the bristles about 1 arms length across the surface.
Next you are
going to spread the paint up towards the line you are going to cut into.
Once you have cut in a nice straight line, which just takes practice.
Then finish off the entire arms length stroke with a light even
pressured stroke. That's it just one stroke over the whole surface you
have just painted two max. This leaves a nice even finish making sure
that you haven't left any "fat" edges or stop start marks which look
horrible when the paint dries. if you have any fat edges left after
this, then just wipe over them again with your brush in long strokes.
The
whole length of your cutting in should be about 100 - 150mm or 4 - 6
inches wide and about one arms length long with no fat edges and a nice
even finish free of stop start marks. Its important To make sure that
you remove all stop/start marks ensure that the finishing stroke goes
back in the direction of your previously painted surface, not towards
the direction that you are about to paint next. always go back into your
work with a long stroke to finish off.
3) - How To Apply Acrylic
Paint Using A Roller Again there are many bad habits when it comes to
using a roller to apply acrylic paints and also the tools that you use
will make a huge difference too.
These are the tool that I suggest
you use for your painting project. Thickness of the roller - For
interior acrylic paints on a normal wall/ceiling - 11mm nap/pile (that's
the length of the wool - I only use the wool roller sleeves I can't
stand foam or the man made fibres) Length of the roller sleeve. - I
always use the 270mm roller sleeves which is the largest sleeve and
frame combo that you can buy. Why waste time with a smaller one?
The
type of roller tray that you use is a big factor on how easy your job
is going to run. many of them are just rubbish and cause you more
spillage and headache than anything else. there are a few different one
that painters use. My personal favourite, and unfortunately I can't
supply with a photo so you will have to put up with my lame description
is a curved well type. From the side on view where you pour the paint
into looks a bit like a "C" with a tray coming of the bottom of the "C".
I will take a photo of a nice clean new one and post it here for you to
see. This type reduces the spills and accidents immensely plus it has a
handle underneath so that when you pick it up all the paint sits in the
Well and doesn't spill everywhere. They are great!!
Extension
Poles - they are a must! Using an extension pole is essential for
creating a professional finish to your wall. If you don't use them it
will take you all day to do a 5 - 10 minute job and the finish will be
uneven and very amateurish. The bottom line if you want nice even &
professional finish to your newly rolled surface get yourself a good
twist lock or extendable roller pole.
The Roller Frame that you
use isn't overly important but there are a few things to keep in mind.
With the cheap roller frames often after a bit of use they start to
bleed a grease that mixes with the paint and causes grey splatters of
tainted grey paint on your nice new wall. While this is really annoying
it can be avoided most of the time by getting a better quality roller
frame. Apart from that I don't have a favourite type that I would
recommend.
Method for painting acrylic with a roller: Make sure
you are wearing old clothing & have remove any nice jewelry that you
don't want spattered with paint, you have a good quality drop cloth
down on the floor and covering your furniture. Rollers tend to spray
lots of little paint flecks so cover everything up. Now after stirring
your paint, pour some into you tray but don't fill it right up to
maximum capacity. You need to have a little bit of room to work with, so
just full up the Well of your tray not the flat tray it self. Next
rinse the roller sleeve under some cold water and spin out excess water
this is just to dampen the wool which stops the paint from drying hard
at the base of the wool fibers.
attach the extension pole and
adjust to fit your size. When rolling you want to stand about 1 metre
away from the wall and be easily able to reach all the way up to the
ceiling without stretching and all the way down to the top of the
skirting boards without bending over. Now load up your roller with
paint. Start by placing your clean sleeve on the flat tray and role into
the paint coating smaller amounts of the sleeve at a time until full
(should take about 5 or 6 dips to do this) Never just plunge the entire
roller sleeve into the paint nor do you roll back towards you on the
tray, always roll towards the paint well this will keep the paint from
dripping over the edge of the tray and making a big mess.
once the
roller sleeve is nice and evenly coated all over then apply to the
wall. Start about 200mm or 8 inches away from the corner of the wall and
about knee height and roll up wards until you get about 3/4 of the way
up the wall. leave it for the moment and re fill your roller and apply
in the same fashion starting about knee height and about 150mm further
across the wall from your last roller full. Next you want to spread it
out evenly. After the 2nd applying roll, take your roller off the wall
go back to the starting point of your first roll. Applying a firm even
pressure roll up towards the cornice but this time roll it a bit closer
to the cornice but not up to the final height yet, stay down about 150mm
for now. Then roll down and across to the starting point of your second
applying roll, again rolling it up to the cornice again staying down
about 150mm from it. then roll back down and across to the starting
point and down to the skirting board.
Now that the majority of
your paint is spread out you need to push it out the the edges of your
wall. so roll the paint gently out to about 30mm above the skirting
board edge of your wall and the same up below the cornice. The trick is
to avoid fat edges so lighten the pressure you are applying to the
roller as you approach the edges and finish with a very light pressure
as you rebound and roll back in the opposite direction. So - As you roll
down to the skirting board start lightening your pressure about 300mm
or 1ft above the skirting board and as you get to the bottom it should
be just the weight of the roller on the wall as you stop your downwards
roll and start rolling back up the wall.
When spreading the paint
to the outside edges or as you are pushing the paint into the corners of
your wall you want to make sure you aren't pushing copious amount o
paint into the corners to make fat edges. For the edges of your wall
make sure the side of your roller frame that the sleeve slides up
against or the side that disappears into the sleeve is facing away from
the wall. (you should always lead with the edge. that means have it
facing the over all direction that you are painting) Now push gently and
tilting the pole away from the edge that you are rolling into (this
will lift the pressure on the edge of the roller closest to the internal
corner of the wall and reduce the risk of creating a fat edge in that
corner). Roll gently taking your time not to get too close to the other
wall.
Now that the paint is evenly spread across the wall and all
the surfaces are covered you need to apply the finishing roll. This is
other wise known as "laying it off" with your now emptied roller start
about half a roller width from the corner of the wall at about waist
height. Again make sure the part of your frame which going inside the
roller sleeve is facing towards the direction that you will applying
your next roller full to. Now again slightly tilt the roller pole making
your trailing edge of the roller sleeve light to avoid leaving a line
of paint. Now roll up and into the top corner of your wall then roll
down along the wall taking care again not to get it on the other wall.
Once at the bottom roll up to the cornice this time slowly moving your
roller as you go about half a roller sleeve width away from the internal
corner once at the top. Do this movement over the whole rolling stroke
don't lift off and reposition or slide over then start again for this
lay of technique your roller should never lift off the surface. Once at
the top go back down again moving 1/2 a roller sleeve over on your way
down then at the bottom do it again and keep doing this until you have
gone over the entire surface you just applied paint to.
Have a
quick look to see if you left any lines of paint down your wall form
uneven pressure or incorrect technique if it all looks good the start
with the applying technique again. if not re do the laying off method
until you are happy with it. For the rest of the wall it is exactly the
same method as before. only you treat the previous laid off surface as
the internal corner of the wall, except for when you get to the
spreading it out part and when you lay it off. This time you will go
back into your previously laid off surface about 1/2 a roller width when
spreading it out and 1 full roller width when laying it off. Again with
your laying off technique, start away from where your laying off stroke
that goes back into your existing work will finish and at waist height
roll up to the full 1 roller distance into the previously laid off
surface roll straight down and then start the up down 1/2 roller at a
time movement across the wall until you cover all the newly applied
paint.
For all surfaces that you roll its the exact same
technique. on ceilings though it is worth me mentioning that you start
against one edge and work across the ceiling walking backwards. but you
apply and lay off the paint exactly the same way. put it on spread it
out and roll to the edges then lay it off and you're done! Painters tip:
Remember to lighten the pressure that you are applying on your roller
pole when you are about to change directions to avoid leaving a build up
of paint where you changed the direction or other wise known as a "fat
edge".